Forget dyson, how about putting a cyclone separator on a shopvac. This makes any vac a 2 stage machine. Check out it out here.I can't wait to get one and make a cart for both.
Monday, November 15, 2010
Cyclone Cleaning
Forget dyson, how about putting a cyclone separator on a shopvac. This makes any vac a 2 stage machine. Check out it out here.I can't wait to get one and make a cart for both.
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
Modifying a DeWalt DW718 CMS
I recently bought this saw from Home Depot after it went on sale to include the DeWalt stand (DW723).
After assembling it, i noticed a few things I wanted to modify.
1. The power cord comes off the back of the motor, Change that to out the slide rail tube. (Finished)
2. Make something to help catch the dust (Researching)
1. This, I thought was just a cheap way to make the power cord come off the saw. On the Ridgid 12" CMS it comes out the slide tube. The reason the Dewalt didn't do it this way is there is very little room as they wanted the saw to make very tight (60*) miter cuts and have very high clearance. Since I don't need that I don't really care, just as long as I can make a 45+-2* I'll be fine. So I cut thick pipe strap and bent it 90*. and use the saw dust port holder screw. Then used a "P" cable clip and a M4-20 bolt washer and a nut. to protect the cable I'm using spiral cable wrap.
2. The best thing I can think of is a big plastic tub with a hole in the bottom for a vacuum hook up.
Photos:
After assembling it, i noticed a few things I wanted to modify.
1. The power cord comes off the back of the motor, Change that to out the slide rail tube. (Finished)
2. Make something to help catch the dust (Researching)
1. This, I thought was just a cheap way to make the power cord come off the saw. On the Ridgid 12" CMS it comes out the slide tube. The reason the Dewalt didn't do it this way is there is very little room as they wanted the saw to make very tight (60*) miter cuts and have very high clearance. Since I don't need that I don't really care, just as long as I can make a 45+-2* I'll be fine. So I cut thick pipe strap and bent it 90*. and use the saw dust port holder screw. Then used a "P" cable clip and a M4-20 bolt washer and a nut. to protect the cable I'm using spiral cable wrap.
2. The best thing I can think of is a big plastic tub with a hole in the bottom for a vacuum hook up.
Photos:
Monday, November 1, 2010
Modifying a Delta 17-950L Floor Drill Press
I recently acquired this tool as it was being clearanced out of my local hardware store. On arrival home I noticed some thing I wanted to change before putting this machine into full operation.
1. Change the switch to something that's more of a real switch. (Finished)
2. Wire lamp into mains. (Finished)
3. Make laser also work from mains. (Finished)
4. Add mobile base (she be a heavy beast) (postponed - need plywood)
5. Reroute power cable to behind motor so it is out of the way of the rack. (Finished)
6. Modify table tilt bolt to have handle (postponed {requires press to work})
1. The switch I always liked for heavy duty power tools I found on a Craftsman Professional drill press. I sourced them for replacement parts, the switch, cover, and "off" paddle cost me $22 with shipping Here Model# 152229010, parts in diagram #50, 51, 52. I Initially thought this change over would be very simple as it looked like it just might fit. on arrival, it did not. So I decided to take out the original switch, and use the original metal plate as a mounting bracket for the the new one. I used a Dremel an a cutting wheel for the rough cut, the grinder wheel for fitment. Its not pretty, but it doesn't matter as it will not show up. Next I drilled the holes after aligning where I wanted the final placement. Then tapped them with a M4 .7 tap. and used M4-25 bolts with washers. Be sure to use washer behind the switch as it needs space as the overhang of the cover wont let it mount securely. I used 4 washers. This modification also aids in future upgrade to 220 mains when you want to upgrade the motor.
2. I used the old hole that used to be the one for the main power cord. Since it will now be move to the back of the machine. this opens up for the lamp cable to be routed into the front panel. This also requires modifying the metal cable stays.
3. This requires the use of a very small 9v adapter. I'm using one from an old defunct answering machine. I mounted the adapter with a hose clamp and thick pipe strap steel plate. It was trick to get the adapter and the switch to fit with the adapter in the housing. I ran the 9v cable through 1/4 tubing to reduce risk of harming cord. I also ran this cord through with the lamp cord strain relief.
4. I found the HTC-2000 to fit the bill with layers of plywood for a base. Found it on amazon HERE.
5. This is something that just makes me scratch my head on why they didn't do this. Put the exit of the power cord clear in the back past the motor. I used a screw on cable strain relief from McMasterCarr 69915K64
drilled a hole in the back near the motor. I used a Lennox 3/4" Bi-metal hole saw to make the hole for this strain relief.
6. This will take a bit of machining skills. To make this I have drawn out how to make it. So far the idea is to use the same handles they use on the bottom of the table including the spring loaded part.
As of 12/10/10
1. Change the switch to something that's more of a real switch. (Finished)
2. Wire lamp into mains. (Finished)
3. Make laser also work from mains. (Finished)
4. Add mobile base (she be a heavy beast) (postponed - need plywood)
5. Reroute power cable to behind motor so it is out of the way of the rack. (Finished)
6. Modify table tilt bolt to have handle (postponed {requires press to work})
1. The switch I always liked for heavy duty power tools I found on a Craftsman Professional drill press. I sourced them for replacement parts, the switch, cover, and "off" paddle cost me $22 with shipping Here Model# 152229010, parts in diagram #50, 51, 52. I Initially thought this change over would be very simple as it looked like it just might fit. on arrival, it did not. So I decided to take out the original switch, and use the original metal plate as a mounting bracket for the the new one. I used a Dremel an a cutting wheel for the rough cut, the grinder wheel for fitment. Its not pretty, but it doesn't matter as it will not show up. Next I drilled the holes after aligning where I wanted the final placement. Then tapped them with a M4 .7 tap. and used M4-25 bolts with washers. Be sure to use washer behind the switch as it needs space as the overhang of the cover wont let it mount securely. I used 4 washers. This modification also aids in future upgrade to 220 mains when you want to upgrade the motor.
2. I used the old hole that used to be the one for the main power cord. Since it will now be move to the back of the machine. this opens up for the lamp cable to be routed into the front panel. This also requires modifying the metal cable stays.
3. This requires the use of a very small 9v adapter. I'm using one from an old defunct answering machine. I mounted the adapter with a hose clamp and thick pipe strap steel plate. It was trick to get the adapter and the switch to fit with the adapter in the housing. I ran the 9v cable through 1/4 tubing to reduce risk of harming cord. I also ran this cord through with the lamp cord strain relief.
4. I found the HTC-2000 to fit the bill with layers of plywood for a base. Found it on amazon HERE.
5. This is something that just makes me scratch my head on why they didn't do this. Put the exit of the power cord clear in the back past the motor. I used a screw on cable strain relief from McMasterCarr 69915K64
drilled a hole in the back near the motor. I used a Lennox 3/4" Bi-metal hole saw to make the hole for this strain relief.
6. This will take a bit of machining skills. To make this I have drawn out how to make it. So far the idea is to use the same handles they use on the bottom of the table including the spring loaded part.
As of 12/10/10
3D Printer update
Wow, nearly a year ago I posted my Interest into owning a FDM. Well that dream is starting to finally take shape. I have already started sourcing parts to build a RepRap II aka Mendel. Currently I have already cut the bar and threaded rod, and about half of the assembly is done. Things I still have to do are finish construction of the chassis, get the electronics, and figure out how to make the extruder. Right now I have put this project on short hiatus till I have a few other things done that in turn will also help build this machine. Otherwise I hope to have this project completed before the end of the year. (I will add photos soon.)
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